As we had a long day ahead, we had decided that cars should be packed before breakfast, breakfast at 7am and then we head home. It was just over 800 kms we needed to travel and we all wanted to arrive home before it was too late in the afternoon.

We had the car packed by sunrise which gave us 30 minutes to do some birding before breakfast but we didn’t add anything new despite there being a lot of bird life around. I know everyone is dying to know how many birds I saw for the trip – total count in the end was 117. Less than I would have liked at the outset but I think we were affected by some mornings of rain, cold weather and migrants having left already. It wasn’t for lack of trying with numerous bird walks and drives. 5 lifers though for me was more than I expected as we have done these areas before and basically gotten most of the lifers available in the area already. I also said to S that we should get her to 300 lifers on the trip and so I am pleased we managed to do that. Pretty impressive for someone who has only been birding for 2.5 years. H also manged to cross the 300 birds for this year mark on the trip. That is also very impressive.

We were on the road before 8am and stopped for our first refueling & coffee at Richmond and then back on the N1. BSAO stopped at Beaufort West for an emptying but we headed on to Laingsberg where we stopped to refuel and then went to KFC for lunch. We usually do KFC at least once during a road trip (it wouldn’t be a road trip otherwise). This was one of the more efficient KFCs we have encountered on road trips. BSAO caught up to us at the KFC and then we headed out again on the last section back into Cape Town. We all got home safely around 5pm.

We all agreed that we wouldn’t ever repeat Coffee Bay and we probably had done Golden Gate NP enough times now (it was pretty cold braaiing ever night and the cabins get no sun basically from 3pm onwards). We all enjoyed Ganora farm but we regretted not doing the Valley of Desolation & Camdeboo National Park. Some of us would like to go back and also revisit Mountain Zebra NP (which is in the same area). The Underberg is worth another visit and we could have spent 2 nights at Colesberg and done some Orange River activities on the one day. The general consensus is a desire to do the Natal Midlands and battlefields on the next trip.

Until next time

P & H
B & S
R & J
A & O

Today was the start of our travel back home. When we woke this morning at 6am, the valley was covered in cloud/mist which was hard to capture as a photo but a few people gave it a try. Photo below was courtesy of B.

We were packed up before 8am and on the road to just north of Colesberg where we had our last overnight before heading home. A quick refueling and tyre pumping at the Glen Reenen camp and we were then on our way. The first 100 kms of road varied from barely passable to appalling in places. The potholes littered the road and in some places you had to wonder if there was actually a road there at all. The speed limit varied from 80 km/h to 100 km/h but there was no way you could drive those speeds because you would have shredded your tyres. H suggested I invest in a tyre manufacturer as people must be going through more tyres now with the state of the roads. It made me realise again how much better quality the roads are in the Western Cape. I few of the road signs saying ‘Potholes’ had ‘ANC’ sprayed over them. It really does make me wonder why the government doesn’t invest in infrastructure (like roads) so much more. It would create jobs and give us better roads which actually benefits everyone.

Fortunately we go onto the N7 (which is a national road and therefore maintained better) and then onto the N1 and both of those roads are in good condition and well maintained. We did two stops on route to our overnight venue – one for toilet and coffee and then another one driven by the need to get rid of the coffee which had worked its way through the system. After the 2nd stop (which was just outside Bloemfontein), we wound our way through Bloemfontein and onto the N1 heading south to Cape Town. Just before we got to Colesberg we turned off to our lodge – Tzamenkomst River Lodge which is on the banks of the Orange River.

B & S had stayed here in 2021 and enjoyed it so that is why we are back. The lodge has been added to since then and they have more rooms, a new dining/bar area and a gym and place to have sundowners. We arrived at about 3pm and did a bird walk and S saw her 300th lifer so champagne was ordered to celebrate.

The sunset over the Orange River was quite amazing. The colours changed almost by the minute. Sunsets with a little cloud, water and in a remote place always seem to be the best.

We had our final dinner together provided by the lodge – the vast majority of us had lamb shank and J had chicken curry. Desert was chocolate sponge with ice cream. Over dinner we did our usual go round about the highlights and lowlights of the trip. I am getting older now so forgive me if I don’t remember everyone’s but here they are:

Highlights:

1. Ganora Farm – bird walks, running and 4×4 trip up the mountain
2. Underberg – crisp air, views, running, bird walks, bridge crossing
3. Golden Gate – views
4. Company – getting to know some of the group better than we did before

Lowlights:

1. Potholes on roads
2. Coffee Bay – harassment of locals, the road to get there and being underwhelmed when we got there
3. Afriski & Lesotho – sadness of how run down Afriski was, winding & monotonous roads

Until tomorrow

P, H, S (she got to 300 lifers today!), B, A (he provided the red wine for dinner), R, J & O (she had ice in her champagne)

It was very cold when we woke up this morning – 3 degrees. Fortunately the sun shines straight into the hut (as we face east) and so it didn’t feel as cold as that. We did some early morning birding from the hut and I managed to add 2 lifers and a number of trippers (now at 108 for the trip). We went out at 8am for a drive to the vulture feeding station. There are 2 loops in the Golden Gate National Park and we are staying on one (Oribi loop) and that is the same one that the Vulture feeding station is on. We had mixed success last time seeing vultures and so we headed there at 8am because that was when we had success last time. Unfortunately no success this time so we headed back for breakfast.

Around 11:30am we decided to go out and drive the other loop after stopping at the main camp for fuel and charcoal. That loop yielded another lifer for me (Wailing Cisticola) which has taken me up to 538 lifers in total. S is now on 299 lifers so we are hoping to get her to the 300 mark very soon.

We mainly just relaxed this afternoon. A, O, S & B went for a walk up the ridge and then J, H and R did a similar one later. The sun went at 5pm from the cottage and it is feeling pretty chilly inside already (outside temp was 13 degrees C). I started the indoor fire at around 3pm to keep the chill out but it seems only partially successful. It is currently 7 degrees C and predicted to drop to 3 overnight.

We did a braai once again for our last evening that we are self-catering. We start our journey home tomorrow and seemingly we all still have a lot of food left that we are taking home. We lasted a little longer tonight. It is currently 9:20pm and I should actually post the blog tonight before I go to sleep.

Until tomorrow …

P, H (she found the one lifer today), B (he spotted it again after it went missing after H had originally found it), S, A (he braaied tonight), R, O & J

As the crow flies it is only 38 kms from Afriski to Golden Gate National Park (our next stop). However, there is a the small matter of the Drakensberg/Maluti mountain range directly between these two places. We needed to do about an hours drive in Lesotho to the border crossing (at Butha Buthe) called Caledon. The road was windy windy (as in not straight) and with quite a few potholes. It was slow going (or felt that way) as we descended from 3100m to around 1900m.

We had left at just before 9:30am and we were at the border by around 10:30am. The Lesotho border was relatively quick and easy including not even having to get out your car. Then we arrived at the SA border and total chaos. You had to get out of your car to get your passport stamped. People had just abandoned their cars so that they could get into the queue. The non-drivers got into the queue as well while the drivers found a spot to park and then joined the queue. From a quick look it was obviously this was going to take some time. There were about 200 people ahead of us and the line seemed to be moving slowly. It took us 45 minutes to finally get to the front and get our passports stamped and then head over the border. It seems most of Lesotho were trying to cross the border yesterday as well. There were definitely more people than there were cars but when were through the SA border, we saw the multiple taxis lined up to transport the people to wherever they were going.

By this time it was lunch time. We headed into Clarens and went to the Clarens Brewery (we had been previously). When at a brewery one must have an on top beer and our table ended up with quite a diversity – B had a red ale, A a lager, S a blonde and I had a stout. Everyone seemed to enjoy whatever they bought. We also had some lunch at the brewery. Unfortunately, J is now banned from going back to Clarens as she didn’t pay any attention to the toilet signs and used the wrong one. When she exited the stall she found a male using the urinal. She went on to tell us she knows exactly what the guy looks like (we really didn’t want to know). She retreated back into the stall and no doubt the guy was keen to finish up very quickly and get out of there.

We walked around the town and the ladies did some browsing and but seemingly only O bought something. The men thought we had everyone back and then we would lose another one to the shop. A suggested that it seems they shop in series – one comes back and then another goes. Fortunately it was only about a 20 minute drive to the Golden Gate NP.

We had to check in at Glen Reenen camp reception (which we did at around 3pm) and then it is another 15 minute drive up to the Highlands Mountain Retreat. We have two cottages each sleeping 4 people and they overlook the Drakensberg mountains. The view is spectacular. It was fairly cool and the wind was blowing which made it feel colder. By the time the sunset (at 6pm) it was already only 10 degrees C.

We got a fire going inside the cabin and R got Weber loaded with charcoal and got the braai going for dinner. By 8:15pm everyone was yawning and ready for bed. It seems we can barely get past 8:30pm these days. We put it down to the early mornings and fresh air. It is also the reason why I never posted the blog last night. I managed to do the first 2 paragraphs and just couldn’t keep my eyes open.

Until later today …

P, H, S, B, R (for braaiing last night), A, O (I haven’t forgotten about the red wine yet) & J (for the toilet gaffe)

We were waken a number of times last night as a thunderstorm unleashed itself on the area. The lightening lit up the night sky and the thunder rattled the windows. It rained heavily and at one point it hailed and I could actually see the hail ricocheting off the windows and hoped it wasn’t hard enough or big enough to damage our cars. The lightening was so close that at one point I wasn’t even able to count to 1 before the thunder clapped and rattled the windows.

The power went off at around 5am and I lay in bed wondering whether it was loadshedding or whether it was knocked out by the storm. Fortunately it came back on just after 7am and we were able to make coffee and have breakfast (flapjacks for everyone). After breakfast B, S, H & I went for a walk up the hill (read mountain) and we did some birding as it had stopped raining. The others went to raid the original house for a grater, magazines etc and then down to reception to use their WiFi. Late morning all of them went for another walk down to the restaurant area and some had some drinks down there. I was busy doing the blog and didn’t particularly feel it necessary to brave the 10 degree C weather will a significant wind chill for a 2nd time today.

While they were down at the restaurant the power went off (around 12:30pm) and we just assumed it was loadshedding as B said it was off down there too. By 5:30pm when it hasn’t come back on again at the chalet we thought we better see what was going on especially since we could see the lights on at the restaurant. A few of them drove down to reception to discover they had closed up already but the security guard at the gate managed to get maintenance and around 6pm our power was back on. It would have been a very cold and dark night otherwise (and it is still pretty cold in our bedroom despite the heater running for the last 2.5 hours now).

The rain returned for the whole afternoon and it is still raining now as I type this blog (almost 9pm). We had decided to make some pasta for lunch which turned out to be a good call because there was no way we could braai today. It is currently 5 degrees C outside and will head down to 0 degrees tonight according to my weather app. It was a stay indoors type of afternoon and evening.

Sleep seemingly was difficult for many of us last night with the storm, headaches, noise etc and so besides A & R (who I can hear talking downstairs), everyone else is either in bed or at least in their bedrooms already.

We are all ready to move on tomorrow as we have had enough of limited electricity, heating, facilities, cellphone signal etc.

Until tomorrow ….

P, H, S (told me a closer place to see the Grey Tit which was lifer number 535 today for me), A (he drove down to find out what was going on with electricity along with a few others in the rain), B (his demotion because he has taken on H’s sickness of being a blog grammar critic), J, R (making lots of excuses why he hasn’t sent drone pics) & O (there is that red wine and ice thing still stuck in my memory)

Yesterday was the day we did the Sani Pass for the 2nd time. We last did it in 2019 (just before Covid struck) and at the time we had purposed to do it again. Where we were staying was just over an hour to the foot of the Sani Pass. We agreed to leave early (6:30am) so that we got the best driving conditions and the morning light. There were patches of mist in the lower lying areas as we headed our way to the Sani Pass and I hoped we would be above it quickly (which we were).

The road from about 3 kms past the Premier Resort Sani Pass (we stayed there last time) used to be dirt road and they were working on tarring it in 2019. It is now a tar road all the way to the SA border post which obviously makes it a very easy drive. We got to the border post at around 7:45am and once we did the passport formalities (which went very quickly) we started on the pass proper. It was much rockier and looser in the lower section than when we did it last in 2019 but none of us had any trouble at all (we have the Beast – Toyota Landcruiser; B has a Toyota Fortuner and A has a Landrover).

We stopped at the same place we did previously about half way up and then we stopped again for coffee and biscuits just before the switchbacks. The switchbacks were not as difficult to drive than the previous time. The road might be slightly less rocky or we might just be more experienced in doing the drive. We did also stop relatively early on to ID two Bearded Vultures (they are a special for the pass). The bird life was very quite unfortunately and we hardly saw anything else until we got right to the top. The dramatic views remain though.

At the top we stopped just short of the Lesotho border to do some birding and managed to add quite a few of the specials. We then did Lesotho passport control and then headed for a drink at the highest pub in Africa at 2874 meters. It is a bit of a tradition to have a beer at the top and B, A and I did precisely that (we did all get some toasted sandwiches too). We had gone up the pass in near perfect weather but it was starting to cloud over by the time we got to the top and it was a cool 14 degrees C.

We left the pub and headed further into Lesotho at around 11:30 am. We are staying at Afriski Mountain Resort which was about a 2 hour drive. The driving is very slow and windy (as it a very twisty road not as in the way the wind blows – English is a stupid language!). The highest point we got to was 3250m above sea level. To give you an idea, Jungfraujoch (in Switzerland) which is known as the top of Europe is at 3450m. We all battled with wanting to fall asleep on the 2-hour drive to the resort. H nodded off a few times and talking to the others, they experienced the same effect. It seems the altitude really was affecting us all. Fortunately none of the drivers fell asleep and we made it safely to Afriski.

Afriski has had some ownership issues and so we were concerned about what state the accommodation would be in but we were pleasantly surprised by the how nice the chalet was and well appointed. We have been drawing names to see who gets what rooms always and this time H and I got the best room (we actually drew last so it was the others that chose poorly). We offloaded everything and then someone checked the hot water and we realised there was none. B went back to reception to complain and the maintenance guy came quickly and opened the distribution board and it was smoking. B & I had opened it earlier and smelt a funny smell but there wasn’t smoke at that point. The guy immediately turned off all the electricity and B went back to reception to insist we get another chalet because we could see it wouldn’t be fixed quickly. Fortunately they did have another one and so we headed to that one.

Everyone wanted to re-draw rooms (jokingly) but we decided to let people chose by their original numbers that we drew which meant H and I could select the en-suite. This chalet had 5 bedrooms with 3 bathrooms which meant we could use the one with bunk beds for our storage. It is however not as nice as the original one especially in terms of living area (the original one for instance had a dishwasher). We checked the hot water and no hot water again! And no gas working for the fireplace or the stove. So back to reception B & I went and complained again and the lady called maintenance. He said the geyser wasn’t turned on underneath the house and that the gas was empty (which we had already figured out). He did fix both but we never got hot water until this morning (loadshedding started at 5pm and might have affected the heating up of the water).

We did a braai last night but it was pretty chilly outside – 8 degrees at 7pm – and the temperature dropped to 3 degrees overnight. We were all pretty tired and headed to our bedrooms at just after 8:30pm. The drive up the Sani Pass, to Afriski and the packing and unpacking, change of chalets etc had seemingly tired everyone out. It is also why I never posted yesterday.

Until later today (assuming I have the energy to post!)

P, H, B (for all the backwards and forwards to get our accommodation sorted), S, A (for braaiing last night in the freezing cold with substandard facilities), R, J & O (that ice in the red wine thing is just sticking in my memory)