Bordeaux to Amsterdam

Everyone started leaving this morning to return home. We missed the early departures (they left at 6:30am and 7am). We had breakfast at our usual time of 9am and then started packing up everything. By just after 10 am we had said our goodbyes and were on the road back to the airport at Bordeaux. The GPS said it would take 1 hour 10 mins but we had been warned that because of traffic around Bordeaux it would take longer. They were right.  It took about 1 hour 40 minutes. Disposing of the rental car, finding the check in counter and checking in our luggage all went smoothly and easily.

By this stage we knew that the first batch traveling had about an hour delay on their flight and as they were meant to have about 1 hour 40 minutes to connect this was now down to 40 minutes (and at Charles de Gaulle airport that means you miss you plane). Our flight (on the other hand) to Amsterdam left on time (well we were officially 3 minutes late but by airlines standards that is on time). In fact KLM have a very good on time departure record (91% of flights leave on time which compares to 76% for most USA based carriers). Your trivia fact for today, in June 2013 SAA was named as the World’s Best Airline for Ontime departures.

We arrived at about 3:30pm into Amsterdam and by that stage it was confirmed that the two USA based families had missed their flight and it had taken them 3 hours to get sorted out. They have the night in Paris airport hotel and are booked on a flight tomorrow now. The joys of flying Air France & Delta. In case you are wondering, Air France’s ontime departure record is 71% which is one of the lowest for a major international airline (#whyamInotsurprised).

We took a taxi into our hotel in Amsterdam. We are staying at The College Hotel (http://thecollegehotel.com/en/home) which was booked by Michael after he got some recommendations from a class mate.  You might be wondering why such a strange name – well that’s because it is a college for hotel students. It was originally a school (founded in 1895) and you can still imagine all the school kids running around. The converted it to a hotel in 2005 and is run by students training at various hotel training schools. It is a very nice hotel at a very reasonable price by European standards and is ideally located. I would suggest it to anyone visiting Amsterdam. They are a little slow with check ins but they are very deliberate and you know exactly what you are getting for the price you’re paying. The guy who showed us the room even managed to point out the toilet to Helen! He was so nervous, he was makinamsterdamg Helen nervous.

We went out hoping to take a canal tour this evening but they were all already fully booked for today. Instead we walked around and then found a very vibey part where there were numerous restaurants. We chose the Argentinian steakhouse and really enjoyed the good steaks we had while watching the passers-by. Tomorrow there is a Gay Pride march in Amsterdam and they have warned us that the canal boats might be less frequent etc. Trust us to be in Amsterdam on a Saturday with a gay pride march.

rijks

Lovely evening in Amsterdam with the temperature somewhere in the 30 degrees (but quite humid as well). We enjoyed the walk back to our hotel again. Unfortunately it wasn’t the same route as we took when we left the hotel because Michael and Helen had see numerous scantily clad ladies leaning out of the windows on that route and hadn’t bothered to point them out to me. I was dutifully leading the family and not letting my eyes wander. My mother will be proud of me …

Until tomorrow

P, H, S, M, C

 

Final hurrah

view from braaiToday was our last full day in France. Everybody just wanted to chill out and relax (except Helen and my sister-in-law Sue who went for a run this morning). The gaggle of girls had been up late last night. I went to bed at 1:20am and they were very much still awake at that point. At about 12:30am there had been a loud shriek from the room.  It had happened just after a loud (male) voice had shouted out. I figured one of the guys had climbed up the outside of the Chateau and scared the girls. At breakfast this morning my suspicion was confirmed.

Helen and I went into Castillon to do some shopping at the local supermarket (more like a hypermarket). It turned out to not be a very successful trip because the shop was rather boring.  We did get one or two items as presents and a few things for ourselves too. We managed to also figure out the French instructions for filling up the car using our credit card (despite my brother-in-law not being able to do it last Sunday!) and we headed backed to relax for the balance of the afternoon.  By this stage it was already 32 degrees and the temperature was rising steadily. At 8pm this evening it was 35 degrees. It must still be around 30 degrees outside. The nephews & nieces have just finished having a late night swim. Clothes are strictly optional for sleeping in tonight!

braaiThis evening we had our final dinner together. We decided to do the traditional SA thing and have a braai together. The Chateau provided the meat, salads and fruit and we did the braaiing. Somehow or other my brother & I ended up as the tongmasters for the night. And at 35 degrees without a braai in front of you, you can imagine how hot it was in front of the braai. 2 beers and 4 cokes later and I still don’t feel even remotely rehydrated yet. They provided a ton of meat (literally) for us.  There was a quarter chicken, a piece of sausage and a piece of steak – one of each for everyone. There was a mountain of meat left at the end.  The ice cream at end went down very well.

We also had the ‘official’ family photos tonight. It is a nightmare herding us at the best of times and during a photo session it becomes even worse. Josh did a great job of trying to organise everyone. He may have started to regret marrying into this family after tonight! We never have managed to have a good family photo in the past so I am hoping this one is better than usual (both the larger family shot and also our own family photo).

last supperIt remained only to say goodbye to those leaving early tomorrow to catch their flights back to the USA (first group leaves at 6:30am). About half of the group will leave before us and we are unlikely to see before they leave. It was really fond farewells for everyone. No one can believe that it was a week ago that we all arrived in France together. It really has been a great time together and we are all incredibly grateful for my parents facilitating it. Individual families (and family members) are already planning trips to SA or USA or London or Switzerland or somewhere to meet up again in 2014. It has been a great time together – we will have to replicate it again soon.

P, H, S, M & Cfamily

Le Picnic

We were up quite early today as Helen and 3 other insane people in the family decided to go mountain biking. As I was awake already as well I went to breakfast with them and then they headed out on their bike tour of Bordeaux. They got back just before 11am and seem to enjoy it (having cycled almost 30 kms according Endomondo).

picnicWe had decided to book a picnic lunch at the winery we had visited yesterday (Chateau Font-Vidal) and got back there at 12pm (as booked). Of course they were not ready for us (this is France and they are never ready for you) so we killed a little time with some photo taking and general messing around. The picnic was ideal for lunch – bread, cheese (all goats cheese but 6 different varieties), cold meat, crudites (not the same thing as luddites), pate, fruit and of course wine (all of which came from the region). The older folks ate inside at the table, the younger ones (including Helen and myself because we form part of the younger crew here) ate outside on the grass. It was very relaxed and enjoyable.  After lunch we played some rugby including doing some lineout jumping by the more athletic ones. linout

By the time we left the temperature was already reading 30 degrees C and it was still on the increase. Pretty much the only thing you could do was swim or sleep though another 4 crazy people went off horse riding in the afternoon.  Apparently all the horses were French speaking and didn’t take instructions in English. We had a family meeting to discuss various matters at 4:30pm and then some family photos at 5:30pm. The latest addition to our family (Josh) is a professional photographer and he has the tough job of taking some formal family photos while we are here.

After that it was some more eating again. Dinner this evening for me was seared tuna as starter and then beef steak. I asked for medium rare and got the steak done blue instead. I knew that the French undercooked steak but I could still hear the mooing of the cow when I put my ear up to it. The other main choice was rabbit and many people (including most of my family) tried that. I got the best of both worlds because I ate the most well cooked beef bits and then traded the balance for Michael’s rabbit and then I finished off the rest of what Helen had rejected of her rabbit (I am thinking of a few friends who are reading this post and will be horrified by us eating rabbit).

game playingThis evening we had some more reminiscing again by a close long standing family friend who is here at my parent’s invitation (I remember staying with them when I was 5 years old) and my brother. This was followed by a quiz evening organised by the most competitive member of our family – my sister (Meryl). It was a quiz separated by 50 years. One set of questions on 1963 events and one set on 2013 events.  Some were ridiculously hard – like which island off Iceland was formed in 1963 through an undersea volcanic eruption. Who would ever know that?! None of us did. To save you the trouble of googling it – the island name is Surtsey (your trivia fact for today). Some were a lot easier like which Pirates of the Caribbean star was born in 1963 … is there any other star but Johnny Depp? Unfortunately even though we thought we had a good team we finished in the middle of the pack this time. If we hadn’t crossed out so many correct answers we might have done a little better though!

It is now 11:40pm and it is dead still (wind wise) but not noise wise. The girls (starting at 13 up to 24) have decided to all move into together for tonight and so there are a riot of them (what else could the collective noun be for a bunch of noisy young ladies?!) in the room diagonally across from us. Who knows when they will go to sleep but I am pretty sure it will be after us though.  It is still VERY hot and I doubt the temperature is less than about 25/26 degrees right now. No aircon in the Chateau but at least we have a fan. Still going to be a hot night tonight …

P, H, S, M, C

Wine tasting & canoeing

It is not advisable to do those two things back-to-back as a general rule but that occupied our time today. It was another beautiful day here in France (weather winerywise) with the temperature around 27 degrees C and virtually no wind.  After having the (now) usual continental breakfast we headed out late morning for a nearby vineyard and winery. It was only a 10 minute drive from Chateau de Sanse and was recommended to us by them as they get their house wine from them. It was called Chateau Font-Vidal (http://www.font-vidal.com/).  It is a family owned and operated winery that is 10 ha and produces 70000 bottles per year.  That is pretty small by Bordeaux standards where farms are around 100 ha.

The daughter (adult daughter) gave us a tour and her English had an English accent to it and we later discovered her significant other was English. She also later spoke English with a French accent for us and asked whether we found that ‘sexier’!  She was very entertaining and also interesting. She started the tour actually in the vineyards and told us how they plant, prune, trim & harvest the vineyards and grapes.  They basically do everything themselves and that means her father, brother & herself.  She also gave us a tour of their cellar but unfortunately I had to step out for about 30 minutes while I had a business telephone conference. From the laughter I could hear she clearly continued to entertain.

We then did some wine-tasting of their wines – a rose and two Bordeaux blends (in fact that is tautologous as all Bordeaux wines are blends). She then got the benefit of the fact that she had 18 people all wanting to take some souvenir from the winery home with them. I think it was well worth her late morning doing the tour for us.

de sanseWe got back to the Chateau just in time to have some lunch before heading out canoeing. Unfortunately everyone had the same thought at the same time and so the kitchen was somewhat swamped and we only got our food at about 2:15pm and we needed to leave by 2:30pm to go canoeing. We had organised to go canoeing again but this time on the Dordogne River (http://www.canoe-fjep.org/crbst_11.html).  In typical French fashion they told us to pre-book and so we did and we arrived early for our 3pm booking but they were not organised and didn’t even have the canoes loaded up yet. We eventually left at about 3:35pm and they took us 8 kms upstream and we then paddled back to their base. There were 21 of us canoeing and so we split up into 10 doubles and Daniel (my one nephew) went by himself.

We did do some swapping of partners about a quarter of the way in to ensure everyone enjoyed the trip a little more and made it back the whole way. The river flows quite quickly and you can drift from time to time in quicker flowing water when you need a small break. The young gunwinnerss pulled out ahead of everyone and then later started messing around (including have a few swims in the river) and they eventually brought up the rear at the end. The slower ones (who started out at the back) ended up finishing first by some distance. It was our modern version of the Hare and the Tortoise. Chloe and I pulled in first followed some distance behind us by Megan & Meryl (my cousin and my oldest sister) and then Helen & Megan (my wife and my niece). With the Temples everything is a contest and we put those young guns to shame (again).
(Update from Stephen: I would like to say that after every time we stopped to have a swim we always managed to catch up and pass the old people. The only reason we didn’t do that the last time we stopped was because we found a rope swing by the side of the river and decided that it was time for them to wait for us for a change, while we had some fun. Besides, my dad or one of my uncles would probably have broken the rope anyway.)

The paddle took longer than expected (around 2 hours) and so by the time we got back to the Chateau it was almost dinner time.  A quick change out of the wet clothes (some splashing happened on route) and we were back down for dinner. The usual 3 courses (main course was a choice of pork fillets or sea bream tonight). Tonight the canoe’ers felt that they deserved to eat whatever was brought because we had worked it off in advance of the dinner. After dinner it was some further reminiscing by my aunt & uncle (the oldest members of our group) followed by Melissa (my one niece). They were all good in their own unique way. My aunt had brought some photos of my Dad as a baby and child along with her.  It is amazing how my Dad looked exactly the same as a baby as he does today – no hair!

unoThe evening was closed off by some card games and my Mom (granny) had to play Uno with all the female grandchildren.  She is a bit of a shark at Uno so I have no doubt she would have won. My sister had also organised to make playing cards with a picture of my parents on their wedding day on the back. Only problem is that I don’t think I could bring myself to play strip poker with Helen with those cards ….

Until tomorrow (when it is going to apparently be 35 degrees)

P, C (because she joined my on the winners podium of the canoeing), H (because she came in 3rd), S & M

 

Saint-Emilion

We are still at Chateau de Sanse (http://www.chateaudesanse.com/en/index.html) and will be here for the next 4 days still. We have the whole Chateau to ourselves except that the restaurant is open for lunch during the day. Given we plan to generally be out for the day that is not really a big issue for us.  Breakfast was again a traditional continental breakfast. The coffee was so strong, I even thought it was strong – I think you could have stood a spoon upright in it.

saint emilionWe decided to go to Saint-Emilion today. It was about 20 miles from the Chateau (to the west). It is an amazing town and known for it’s wines (there are vineyards right in the town) and it’s architecture.  It is actually now a World Heritage Site (http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/932) mainly because of the ruins which are interspersed throughout the town, some of which date back over 1000 years. The first vineyard was planted here in the 2nd century (no that was not a typo). It is clearly a very popular town to visit as there were a lot of people and very few open parking spaces.

You basically park on the outside of the town and then walk through the cobbled streets. I ended up with saint-emilion8 ladies who were planning on shopping. The rest of the men went off by themselves to explore. Not sure why I chose to stay with the ladies (maybe it was guarding the credit card) but I did.  The funny thing was that there are lots of shops in Saint-Emilion but very few the ladies were interested in.  That is because I counted 32 wine shops – no not kidding – 32. And it is a really small town you can walk through in about 10 minutes if you walked non-stop. And those 32 wine shops pretty much don’t overlap in what they sell. They all sell wines from local vineyards and will ship to almost anywhere in the world (but they weren’t keen to ship to SA for some reason). Besides the 32 wine shops there was one chocolate shop, one clothing shop, one soap shop and that was about it. While the ladies were all in one of those 3 shops, I was browsing a wine shop. The owner came out and saw me with 8 ladies and said “Lucky man … one man with 8 ladies, a Frenchman’s dream”!

crepesWe never thought our whole group would agree on a lunch venue so when we split up we said do your own thing for lunch. The 9 of us decided though to go to the Creperie that we saw on the way in and fortunately they had free tables. As we entered we found my brother and the rest of his clan already there too. The French know how to make pancakes. Most of our table had sweet ones (apple with salted caramel sauce) but I had a savory one (ham, mozzarella & tomato). They were really excellent and not even that expensive.  After lunch we headed back to the Chateau to chill for the balance of the afternoon (and fortunately found that they had fixed the WiFi and I could post yesterday’s blog – even though it is VERY slow especially when 30 people are uploading photos onto Facebook).

Dinner tonight was at the Chateau restaurant and again the food was fantastic and the service was superb. After dinner we convened in the conference room for some reminiscing which tonight was done by Dawn (the chief bridesmaid at the wedding 50 years ago) and Megan (my cousin on my Mom’s side and their flower girl). That was followed by a game of family bingo – the bingo board being phrases my parent’s use, meaningful family names (like Petandalyn – which is a combination of my and my siblings names), places and other things that mark out the family. Everyone played and it was great fun to just relax and not have to do anything cerebral at all besides shout out Bingo when your board was filled.

Now (11:30pm) the majority of the cousins are down at the git playing games. Last night some of them (read boys) were up at 2am and 3am playing games and had it not been for me waking them up at 9:45am they would have missed breakfast this morning. Hopefully they will remember that tonight ….

P, H, S, M & C

Brantome to Chateau de Sanse

gitMy Dad had decided that 2 nights at Chateau de la Cote was all we needed.  It would enough to experience the charm of an old Chateau and that we could move to a slightly different area of Bordeaux – it was a good decision.  We were leaving behind the beauty of a large rambling garden and the vast sunflower fields which we could see from the Chateau.  The picture is from our window of our room and the house that you can see in the distance is the actually at the gate and is where the boys slept for the 2 nights (it is called the git in France).

We had to leave the Chateau by 11am and by around 10:45am everyone seemed ready to go. There was a lot of car trading taking place as cousins switched around. We ended up with my nephew and my two sons. We were moving to Chateau de Sanse which was only about 1 hour 15 minutes away. Check in time was only 3pm and so we had to kill some time on route. Everyone headed to do their own thing and we chose the non-motorway, non-toll route.  We headed to Bergerac and then followed the famous Dordogne River.

dordogneWe decided to stop and buy some things for lunch and then have lunch somewhere along the river. At one town on route we found a Casino open. No, not the type you gamble at. This is a type of small supermarket. We went in and it was so poorly stocked and the bread looked like that it had been baked last year that we did a u-turn and headed out to find a better supermarket rather. Schoolboy error! What we forgot was that in France everything is closed on Sunday. Not for religious reasons, just because the French don’t want to work on Sundays (in fact I don’t think they want to work Monday-Saturday either if they could avoid it). So after trying another 10 or so villages we realised the error of our ways. We found a spot on the side of the Dordogne river and ate some fruit, crisps and drank a beer.  That was pretty much what we had available.

By this stage we reckoned we could try and check in and so headed for the Chateau.  It is called Chateau view from chateau sansede Sanse and overlooks the vineyards in the valley below. The view is beautiful. We were the first car to arrive. Shortly after we had arrived the other people started trickling in. When my brother-in-law arrived they told us that they had almost run out of fuel. What they had not realised is that everything closes down on a Sunday (including the petrol stations). While they do have a facility to self-refuel using a credit card, they only take French issued credit cards. After desperately trying numerous stations and credit cards, my brother-in-law flagged down a passing cyclist. Fortunately he speaks French so using all the French he knows he explained the problem. She said she would cycle in front on them (by this stage there were 3 of our cars driving together) to the petrol station. She did that and then she used her French credit card and they repaid her in cash.  They have a video of them driving after her taken with their iPhone which I hope to link to the blog when WiFi connection is restored.  It is very funny. They were relieved.

Two of my uncles managed to get lost on route as well and one arrived at about 4:15 and the other at 5:15. I was having thoughts of them also running out of fuel! Fortunately they made it. As it was Sunday, we held a Sunday worship service in their conference centre. My parents had asked me to preach and so we made it a family affair – Stephen prayer, Michael & Chloe did the readings (Psalm 127 & 128) and Helen read the passages that I needed mid-sermon. I preached on the blessing of God and particularly related it to our family.  Just the fact that we are all in France to celebrate my parent’s 50th anniversary illustrates how blessed we are.

walkAfter the service we had dinner. The food was really excellent and the service was even better. They are very concerned that we enjoy ourselves and have a great experience. The owner/manager wants every detail just right for us and so he was concerned when one plate of food had gone back virtually untouched. He came to check whether we had not liked their food and was there anything they could do to improve. The reality was we have a few fussy eaters (and one very fussy one and that’s not me in case you’re wondering!) and the very fussy one had left it. In fact I had not planned to eat a starter (duck terrine) but when it came I tasted in and it was so good I ended up eating it all. I also had the best cheese we have had so far at the end of the meal. You really can’t go wrong with French cheese but these really were the cream of the cheese. After dinner we went for a walk down the road. It was a lovely still evening and it was a great day to finish off the day.

The service and overall experience here so far has been excellent. The only problem right now is that the WiFi is down and has not yet been restored (hence why the blog was not posted timeously). You will only get this post when the WiFi is restored ….

P, H, S, M & C

Brantome & Banquet

Last night (after I posted the blog) a massive storm moved past the Chateau.  Either that or it was a congregation of ghosts. As it was so hot the windows were all open (no aircon at the Chateau – it was built in 1640 and aircon had not been invented then yet). The wind however came up and howled around the building and through the room. It was so bad I had to actually close one set of windows because everything was been blown around. The young ladies (including Chloe) are all sleeping in the same room. They (this morning) recounted how scared the bunch of them were because of the slamming windows, creaking floor boards and carpets flapping. Add in the mix the lightening and you can see how they might have felt. All I was thinking about was that it was 1am and I wanted to sleep!

I was up at 6:15am this morning because a mosquito had decided to feed on me and the itching had become unbearable. Helen started stirring at about 8:15am and we went for breakfast at 9am. The staff were on insistent on getting our room number.  Not sure why given we are the only people staying here.  Force of habit probably.  Over breakfast we agreed on going canoeing in Brantome.

canoeingBrantome is the nearest village and is about 10 kms away. It is a typical picturesque French village and is brantome1surround by a river which does a circle around the centre of the village. There were 26 of us going the canoeing and after Piers (my brother-in-law) used his French to good effect to organise the 13 2-man canoes we got our life jackets on and started paddling. Helen and I went together.  It was amazing how easily every one paired up. We had the canoes for an hour and it only took about 15 minutes to paddle around the town so we then headed down the river and when we did get back we still had about 15 minutes left so we paddled around the town a second time (or at least Helen and I did and 1 other canoe – the others ditched early). It was quite hard work and I was really sweating by the time we finished.

We then walked into the town and found the only open Patisserie and bought all 10 of their remaining Ham sandwiches. We went back to the side of the river and split the sandwiches between the group (which had reduced somewhat by that stage thankfully otherwise it might have been like feeding the 5000 with 5 loaves).  Then finally we went back into the town centre for some ice creams for desert.

The rest of the afternoon was spent at the Chateau. I managed to sneak in an hour of sleep and then watched the Bulls throw away their Super 15 semi final in the dying moments. This is one example of when I finished technology didn’t allow me to watch the game – I think I am scarred for life after watching them throw away that game!

Uncle BillAs today is my parent’s 50th wedding anniversary (they were married on 27 July 1963), there was a formal banquet tonight to celebrate.  It was again held in the cellar of the hotel but this time was 4 courses interspersed with various items.  We presented my parents with a book containing wishes from many of their friends from around the globe and this was followed by my uncle singing the same hymn he sung at their wedding 50 years ago – Take time to be holy.  He was accompanied by my one niece (Kirsten on the flute). My other niece (the film maker from LA who recently got married) had cut my Dad’s 8mm films of their wedding and honeymoon and created two 5 minute movies. They were very well down and are a great documented history of more than just the wedding & paintinghoneymoon. I hope my children appreciated them as much as I did.  My parents actually said no gifts but their 4 children were all raised to have a mind of their own and so we simply ignored that.  We bought them a Dale Elliot painting (which I had carried over from SA with us).  We had especially commissioned it with Dale Elliot. It was a painting of the view from our family holiday home at Brenton-on-sea.

My uncle also did a speech and toast (it was billed as a toast only but he did an excellent speech too)! He was the bestman at the wedding 50 years ago and did the speech then too. He is really gifted at speaking and did a fantastic job – very humorous as well as sentimental and reminiscing.  And of course there was lots of good food and wine (this is France of course!). Duck was on the menu again but so was guinea fowl.  We finished up the evening at about 11:30pm only after having started dinner at 7:30pm. It really was again a most enjoyable evening catching up with the wider family.

Now it is off to bed and hopefully a better night sleep (though it is still quite warm and no wind at all it seems tonight).

P, H, S, M & C

 

Chateau de la Cote – Brantome

Last night there was a big thunderstorm in Bordeaux but it did nothing to cool things down. It was both hot and humid when we out at 8:30am to pick up the rental car. It was an absolute breeze picking up the car from Hertz (I am a loyal Hertz customer and they generally give very good service worldwide).  Back to the hotel for breakfast with the family. Novotel hotels pride themselves on keeping staffing to minimal and so the breakfast is pretty much self-service. You could have eggs if you wanted but you had to cook them for yourself. Not kidding – a frying pan and hot plate supplied. We stuck to the continental option which (being in France) included some very good cheese.  In France I think it is impossible to eat too much cheese and it is certainly impossible to find bad cheese.

After breakfast we navigated to the nearest shopping centre to get some essential items (like beers, cooldrink, etc) and more importantly to buy some French pre-paid SIM cards. We found an Orange (French cellphone provider) shop at the centre but it became very clear very quickly that it was going to be a long process to get 5 SIM cards activated. I left Helen to do that it of the arranging while I headed with the kids into Carrefour.  It is a supermarket chain in France. It was a massive superstore (similar to Walmart) but the big difference is that it is totally disorganised.  It seems that they randomly scattered aisles throughout the store. There was an aisles of bikes in between the food aisles even.  By the time we had finished doing the shop, Helen was still going on making payments for the SIM cards.  They insisted that each card must be paid for separately so that involved 5 separate payments.

We then headed out on the road to Brantome where the Chateau (http://chateaudelacote.com/) is located that we are spending the next 2 nights.  It was pretty straightforward with the GPS giving sensible directions for 95% of the route except for one section where it took my down a very small country road to cut off a corner of the main road. We stopped at Perigueux at the Inter Marche (another supermarket) to buy some lunch. It was Friday lunchtime and we were the only people in the supermarket. Not kidding – not one other customer was to be seen. Clearly not the time to shop in Perigueux.  And in case you’re wondering it was a decent sized supermarket. Only 1 till point oplunch in franceen but then why would you need more with only one customer?!

We stopped on the side of the road to eat our purchased lunch of a baguette, brie, smoked salmon and parma ham. You simply can’t beat a lunch of that nature in France.  It brought back memories from our trip to France last year. Only difference was that it wasn’t 30 degrees when we were here last here (it was pouring with rain). There was even a toilet at the picnic spot we chose randomly.  toiletOnly problem is toilets on the continent are not always what you expect (see pic).  We were only 30 minutes away from the Chateau after eating lunch and we arrived at about 2:45pm. We have the whole Chateau booked for the next 2 days.  My sister (who has done a lot of the organising – well done Lynne) was already at the Chateau but we were the next to arrive. Shortly after us everyone started to arrive and by about 3:30pm everyone except 4 people had arrived.

It was so hot that I was drenched with sweat from carrying luggage up the stairs. Sitting outside is slightly better than inside because you at least get the effect of the breeze. Helen and I still managed to drink a litre bottle of water in about 10 minutes. I have never tasted such good water! There was a welcome tea at 4pm (of cake and juice – no one would want tea at 30 degrees).  Everybody just sat around catching up.  chateau de la CoteSome people headed for the swimming pool. There are about 33 people staying over night but at the dinner tonight there were 43 people as some of the wider family are also here to join in the celebrations but they are staying in the nearby town (Brantome).

The dinner tonight was in the cellar which is definitely the coolest place idinner at chateaun the Chateau at the moment. We all had to chose our meals about a week ago so that the kitchen staff could cope with us eating at the same time. Basically the choices (for both starter and main) were duck & salmon. This is a major duck farming area and so we have duck on the menu for almost every meal. Fortunately I like duck and so do the family. And washed down with a good Bergerac wine from the region and you can’t really go wrong. Add in good family company, some reminiscing and comparing notes on children raising (or more especially the art of raising teenagers and how they manage to consume internet bandwidth) and you have a very enjoyable evening.  And we have another six of them to come!

More tomorrow ….

P, H, S, M & C

Anniversary celebrations in France

We are back at the traveling thing again but this time for my parent’s 50th wedding anniversary celebrations.  They chose to invite the whole family (and original wedding party) to France (Bordeaux region) to join them in the celebration.  So last night we left Cape Town on the KLM flight for Amsterdam. It really isn’t the most convenient flight to take as it leaves at 11:20pm. After you take off they still try to serve you dinner and all you want to do is go to sleep.  The family was split this trip with 3 of us traveling upfront and the other 2 at the back. It was pretty full in the back except Michael had the seat next to him free (probably the only free seat in economy).  Michael did suggest that the way to get a few more empty seats next to him was to start scratching and say loudly “Wow but this eczema is really itchy tonight”.  I suggested he could also stand up and say loudly “Did you hear those voices or were they just in my head?”.  Those two in combination might clear a few seats around him.

klmIf you regularly read this blog when we travel you will know that I travel a lot overseas and so I have a fair base for comparing airlines.  On the ‘Peter measure’ for airlines KLM is at the bottom.  The seats were terrible. They were the type of seats that other airlines had in the 70s and 80s.  Whoever designed them should be sent to do dyke watching – on second thoughts the whole of the Netherlands might be flooded shortly after that if he/she’s chair design is anything to go by). While admittedly I did not eat dinner (as I was trying to sleep), the breakfast was appalling.  It said ‘Poached egg with bearnaise sauce on bacon on an English muffin’. Something must have been lost in translation because it was really ‘A hard yellow round thing on top of some ham on an English muffin’.  No sauce could be seen anywhere. And if that was a poached egg I would hate to see the chicken that produced that egg.  I got some sleep but it was very uncomfortable and I now think I need physical therapy to recover from all the pains that seat gave me during the night.

We landed just before 11am.  I think we actually landed in Belgium and taxied to Amsterdam – it took us about 15 minutes.  Then they couldn’t get the airbridge positioned against the door and that took another 15 minutes (thought that sort of thing only happened in Africa).  Once we were finally off we discovered our connecting flight was leaving from B2 and we had arrived at F6.  Those two points are about the farthest apart you can get at Amsterdam airport. Fortunately we had lots of time because the connecting flight was only at 14:25.  Schiphol is a sophisticated airport including free WiFi.  We found a spot for drinks and then lunch. I had a baby chicken (yes Janet – a whole one and I thought of you and wanted to take a photo to send to you) with fries. It was the best airport food I have ever had (seriously). Helen had barbecue sausages and potato bake (and you wouldn’t believe the size of the portion she got).

The flight from Amsterdam to Bordeaux was uneventful and exactly on time. We saw them load our bags onto the plane so we at least knew they had made it too. We landed at around 4pm.  Bordeaux airport looks like it was stuck in the 1960s. They clearly haven’t considered doing any work on it since then.  Once we had our luggage we found the hotel board and called them to send the shuttle to collect us.  We are staying at an airport hotel – Novotel (http://www.novotel.com/gb/hotel-0402-novotel-bordeaux-aeroport/index.shtml) – nothing fancy but perfectly adequate for the one night. We were all quite tired from novotel19 hours of travel and so decided to chill in the hotel (read: get connected to free hotel WiFi and catch up on Facebook, Whatsapp, email etc). We had dinner at the hotel – sitting in the garden – sun out, about 30 degrees, no wind.

At about 10pm the noisy group arrived from London. There was a large group of them on the flight including my parents, my brother and his family (they make a party by themselves), my uncle & aunt, one cousin and one longstanding family friend.  Some of our family had never met some of these family members or had last seen them 17 years ago.  So it was quite a rowdy reconnection and introductions in the foyer of the hotel. They dumped their luggage down and then were back for drinks at the hotel bar and a general catch up until sleepiness finally caught up. There are 18 people staying here tonight at the hotel. That is about half the entire group.  We all meet up (assuming everyone’s flights work out ok) tomorrow.

Until then …

P, H, S, M, C

And we’re home

Today was our last day of holiday and it was the longest drive from Fish River Canyon down to Cape Town.  The GPS said 888 kms.  We left at 6:45am (Namibian time) and arrived home at 5pm (SA time – 4pm Namibian time). The trip down was relatively painless and easy. The biggest problem is being careful that the Beast’s speed didn’t get up to much especially on the straight roads.

biltongWe went through the border post at Noordoewer. The process of clearing immigration on both sides took about 20 minutes and was relatively painless. We made a few stops to refuel and defuel. The most important one was made just outside Klawer (as you head to CT).  That was at Trawal Biltong. As you can see from it’s own advertising they have the ‘Best Blerrie Biltong’ and that is no lie. This is where we stopped (per chance) on the way up to Namibia and this is where we stopped (very intentionally) on the way back.  If you are heading up the N7 from CT, it is outside (before Klawer) on the left hand side at the BP garage.

So now that we are home I thought I would do my usual reflections on the country that we have just visited.  I usually restrict myself to the number of thoughts matching the number of days we visited the country. We were in Namibia for 12 days so here is my 12 point summary:

1. The roads are straight, very straight and very long. It is a big country, with lots of straight roads. And the gravel roads are generally in very good condition and in some places are almost as smooth as driving on tar.

2. There are very few people in Namibia. You drive through urban places (such as Luderitz – you can’t really call them a city or even a town as that would be unfair to every other city and town in the world), and you hardly see a person. We reckon we saw 100 people in Luderitz and 15000 people supposedly live there. Where were the other 14900 hiding? We reckon they must be double counting people (sort of like Enron did with their assets).

3. It is a beautiful country. Stark but beautiful. The dryness of the landscape was contrasted today as we started to approach the Swartland which was anything but Swart today. Helen said today that the Springbok would get ill if they lived in the Western Cape as they would have to eat green, juicy grass.

4. It is very dry. Even the air is dry. I needed to use conditioner on my hair. Up near Etosha is the area called ‘Dorsland’ (direct translation means ‘Thirsty land’). And that is how you feel all the time .. Dors … Thirsty … Dry.

5. You need to be able to speak either Afrikaans or German in Namibia to get by. You speak in English, they reply in Afrikaans. They just assume you can understand. If you pretend you don’t understand them then they will try German next. English is a distant third.

6. Forget about trying to use a credit card too often in Namibia. Outside of the urban areas (read outside of Windhoek) most the shops might have a credit card machine on the counter but there is very little chance that the shop assistant will know how to use the machine (a number of times I offered to do it for them and they seemed quite grateful – once even in a supermarket). And if they do know how to use the machine, the chance it will actually connect to the bank to get authorisation is even smaller. Make sure you have lots of cash on you because petrol stations (in particular) outside of urban areas only accept cash.

7. They might be short on water in Namibia but they are also short on drainage skills. You take a shower and you end up being able to have a bath in the water that hasn’t gone down the drain by the time you finish. Brush your teeth in the morning and when you come about an hour later you will be lucky to have no water in the basin. Someone needs to go and train the plumbers in drainage techniques in Namibia. It was the same everywhere even at our favourite Sossusvlei lodge.

8. Meat is Meat and Namibia will eat it. Forget anything else. Meat is what you eat. If you’re a vegetarian, don’t go to Namibia. One friend (and reader of the blog) told us that chicken is considered a vegetable in Namibia.

9. They have a remarkably good infrastructure for such a large, underpopulated country. We (or should I say the boys) measure this by where you could get 4G cellphone signal. You could get it in Keetmanshoop even. Most times our cellphone signal was better (and faster) than we have in home in Cape Town.

10. You will never go hungry in Namibia. Quantity of food matches American sizes.

11. There are a lot of tourists in Namibia. They fall into one of two categories – German touring with a large group of other Germans in a big bus or Safricans in their 4x4s going to places you can only access with 4x4s with a roof top tent, 10 jerry cans and a half an ox in their 4x4s (or in their trailer behind their 4x4s).

12. They clearly make their money from 2 things in Namibia – Diamonds (and De Beers gets half of that) and Tourism. Because of the second, you are always made to feel welcome in Namibia. They go out of their way for you. You always feel safe too.  It makes it a great place to visit as a tourist.

So there you have it. Would we go back … absolutely yes. Next time we go I would like to go to the Caprivi Strip as well. It is the one place in Namibia that I am sure is worth seeing that we have not visited yet. Where else would we go again … well that’s pretty obvious if you’ve been reading the blog … Etosha and Sossusvlei (and if you’ve never been then Kolmanskop is worth a visit).canyon

Thanks for reading and for those of you who commented, thanks for doing that too. There will be a special Namibian dinner for the biggest commentators on the blog.

If you enjoyed reading it, the good news is that we’ll be back in about 2.5 weeks with another trip this time to France/Holland (nothing like having a holiday straight after a holiday). If you subscribe to the blog (right side of the blog you can enter your email address and it subscribes you) then you will receive an email with any posts I make in future.

Until 2.5 weeks time …

P (because I drove 5700kms in the last 2 weeks), H (because she slept for 3700 kms), S (because he birded with me), M (because he reversed the best out of anyone on the trip), C (because her back isn’t broken)