Helen had another first/lifer today. Polony at the breakfast buffet (buffet a bit of a stretch actually) this morning. Breakfast was us and the Transport Inspectorate (5 of whom were also staying at the guesthouse). You might ask what/who the ‘Transport Inspectorate’ is … we would call them traffic cops/police. Seems in Namibia they have a much more important sounding name.
We left at just before 8am this morning and headed to Hardap Dam to do some birding. It is about 20 kms north of Mariental. It was well worth the entrance fee cost. It is the biggest dam in Namibia and dams the Fish River. At times H and I were both finding new birds and it was hard to keep up. We saw new species for the trip at the dam in about 90 minutes. Very rewarding and lovely views over the dam as well.
We then headed back south to Mariental and then west to Sossusvlei. The first 100 kms is on tar road and then you hit gravel roads for the balance of the 250 kms. The roads are generally good and you can easily do 80-100 km/h but sections are not great. The first poor section we hit was because of recent rains and large pools of water were on the road. That was when I wished I had the Toyota Landcruiser (otherwise known as The Beast) and not my SUV Mercedes for the trip. Felt my traction go entirely at one point and was actually concerned at another time of making it through the mud. That was when H got out the manual and we figured out how to change the setup of the car into off-road mode and that definitely improved the traction. It apparently raises the car by 30 cms as well so that you have better clearance.
The second bad section was on the last 50 kms as you approach the lodge we are staying at. It was very bumpy and rocky and definitely needs grading. Apparently it is usually done every 2 weeks but hasn’t been done for the last four or so weeks – they say they are catching up from the holiday period. The lodge manager called it “Africa’s massage”! My hands did feel fairly battered at the end.
The scenery is incredible though and hard to do justice with a photo (though we have tried). At one point we were at 1629 meters above sea level whereas we are now at 895 meters above sea level. We are staying for the next 2 nights at &Beyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge. It is one of our favourite places to stay in the whole world (no I am not exaggerating). This place is a gem and we would highly recommend it. The rooms are incredible, the view is incredible and the stars are like nothing you have ever seen before. It is situated on the NamibRand Nature Reserve and is part of the International Dark Sky Reserve. Whatever way I try to describe it simply won’t do it justice. You just have to come and see for yourself (if you’re privileged to be able to do that – and it is a great privilege).
We did a late afternoon/early evening drive. They only go out at 6pm as it is too hot otherwise and you won’t see anything. We did see a few birds, a few jackal and of course a lot of springbok and oryx (gemsbok for Safricans). Only two new birds for our trip list since we have arrived here and both of them we actually saw from the lodge. I’m at 66 birds for trip and H is on 68 (though I think she should be on 69 actually – she is probably missing something off her list).
Until tomorrow
P & H
