Satara to Skukuza and home

The wind on Thursday evening brought in a massive storm overnight and it bucketed down with rain (along with thunder and lightning). At stages I wondered whether the roof would stay on and when the water would start leaking through. Fortunately neither happened but when we got up in the morning the effects of the rainfall were evident. Michael of course said “Storm, what storm? Never heard anything”!

Our flight left just after 11am from Skukuza airport so we had to do the 90km drive from Satara to Skukuza. We left at around 6:30am. It was very overcast and for the first time it was actually cold (we were wearing long pants and jerseys). It rained very lightly for about the first 30 minutes of the drive. Very little game to be seen which we were surprised about because it was much cooler and expecting the predators to still be active. Unfortunately we saw no predators on way down to airport. We did add a few birds to the trip list and I added one more lifer (bringing the trip tally to two lifers and my total tally to 422). The trip list ended at 109 birds. Not terrible but could have been better. It seems many of the migrants had not quite returned yet. We are back in January and so I’m hoping we finally get to see all the migrants we haven’t yet seen.

The flight back was uneventful except before take off the pilot announced that he needed 8 passengers sitting in rows 1-4 to move to rows 11-18 to re-balance the weight on the plane. We were sitting in row 2 but we waited long enough to volunteer that sufficient other people moved and so we could stay put. Not sure why it mattered that much because the plane was only about 1/3rd full and we never used much of the runway to get the plane into the air either. Pilot being overly cautious I assume (which is generally a good thing when flying).

It was good, relaxing 5 days … just a pity it wasn’t longer and that the whole family weren’t there with us.

Until January (which will be longer!)

P & M

Olifants to Satara

We reversed what we did a few days ago and headed down from Olifants to Satara today. Before we left we did a quick morning drive around the loop near Olifants camp along the Olifants and Letaba rivers. Unfortunately nothing of note to see but we enjoyed our coffee/tea overlooking the Olifants river. We came back to the camp, packed up and headed out back to Satara. This time we took the dirt road for part of the way and added a few more water birds for the trip. Probably the highlight of the day was seeing an African Darter catch a fish about 5 meters away from us (as you can tell it was a slow day). We are now up to 105 birds for the trip which isn’t bad considering we have not seen some pretty standard ones (we haven’t for instance seen any bee-eaters). We also only saw a Martial Eagle for the first time today (though we have seen a lot of other eagles).

The trip down was pretty uneventful. It was hot (well into the 30 degrees again) and also windy (rain is on the way) and so bird viewing wasn’t great and nor was game spotting.  As you can see, most of the game (including elephants) were congregating under trees. We did see the usual (impala, kudu, giraffe, elephant, wildebees etc) but nothing really to add to the trip list. At one of the watering holes we noticed zebra all facing the same way and so we again followed their gaze and noticed numerous cars. It was clear from the zebra and the cars that a predator was nearby and it turned out to be two lions under a thorn thicket. They looked pretty similar to the ones we saw two days ago and might very well have been the same two (they were further South but it did look like a male lion and lioness again).

We then headed into Satara for our last night. We decided to ditch the evening drive this time because of the heat and the wind. One last braai (even though it was so windy) and now I’m ready for bed.  We have to get up relatively early tomorrow to ensure we get to Skukuza airport in time for our 11:20am flight back to Cape Town. Can’t believe how quickly 5 nights has gone past! We have booked for early 2018 already (this time Helen will be with me) and so already looking forward to that.

Until tomorrow …

P & M


Today was a pretty low-key today. We only planned to go out early morning and late afternoon and that is exactly what we did.  The highlight of the morning drive was spotting hyena in the river when we stopped to scan the riverbed. We also had a plan to go to the low bridge crossing at Balule as we had read there were some good bird spotting possibilities.  We weren’t disappointed and added about 10 birds to the trip list (we are now at 99 birds for the trip so far).

The rest of the day we just relaxed around the camp and enjoyed the view over the Olifants River from our chalet. We obsessionally took out of our binoculars to see what we could see. Over the course of the day we saw impala, waterbuck, elephant & giraffe in the river bed without moving from our chalet. It was very hot today with the temperature rising to 37 degrees. Dare I saw a bit warmer than I would actually have liked. There also was not a breath of wind so it really was quite stifling at times.

This evening the highlight of the game drive was rescuing three damsels in distress.  We did the same drive as last night and when we got to one of the pull off spots overlooking the river we found two ladies outside their car trying to place rocks under the tyre of the car while the 3rd was driving trying to get it out. Michael and I had been cautious yesterday when we did the exact same thing but our car has 4×4 and so we engaged that and we actually had no problem getting back up at all. They were however in a Renault and could not get the car back up. We told them to reverse as they needed it to hit the sandy patch with some pace but they were too scared and so they asked if I would be prepared to try. Being a kindhearted guy, I said sure and after trying with a short run in which didn’t work, I reversed further down the slope and hit it with pace and managed to get the car out for them.  They were delighted, thanked me profusely and they jumped in their car and headed off as quickly as possible (clearly to avoid further embarrassment).

The rest of the drive was pretty uneventful after that. Another beautiful bushveld sunset with the almost full moon rising before the sun had set. A braai for dinner (chops, chicken wings, sweet potato, potato and ratatouille).  Inside the chalet with aircon running to cool off! It is still about 27 degrees outside (at 9pm).

Until tomorrow …

P & M

Satara to Olifants

We decided to wake up at 6am this morning for a slightly later morning drive. We did the same as we had done the previous morning and headed for the dam (where we saw the lions the previous day) but no lions to be seen. On route we did see a lifer for me though – Harlequin Quail. Pretty much impossible to spot because it is the same colour as the grass but Michael somehow managed to see it and we were able to positively ID it as well.  The rest of the drive was up to the other dam in the area (for coffee/tea & rusks) and then back again.  We saw the usual game – kudu; impala; giraffe; waterbuck etc but nothing much else.

We had to check out by 10am and so after breakfast at Satara we packed up and headed north to Olifants. It was already pretty hot at 9:30am (nearing 30 degrees) and so most of the animals were already finding shelter under the trees.  We still saw a lot of game on the way up to Olifants including a huge herd of wildebeest and impala (together – must have been about 200 impala and close to 100 wildebeest); plenty of zebra and kudu; a smattering of giraffe, waterbuck, steenbok etc.

The highlight of the drive was at Ngotso North dam. We stopped (as we usually do) to see what we could see at the dam and noticed a small herd of impala standing very still and all looking in same direction. I said to Michael they wouldn’t do that unless they saw a threat. He tried to dismiss me but I insisted there must be something around. So he took me seriously (fortunately) and scanned the direction they were looking in with his binoculars and sure enough under a tree he spotted a lion! There is nothing better than spotting something like this yourself and not relying on other people spotting it for you and you just having it pointed out.  And we were proud of ourselves for seeing the signpost the impala’s gave us! It turned out to be one male lion and a lioness with him. We probably watched for around 30 minutes and the male got up and adjusted his position but nothing much. The impala alarm called, kept watching, drank a bit from the water and wondered off. The lion weren’t interested in them. Too hot. What amazed me is that a lot of people came past and didn’t even stop to ask what we were watching! In fact many people were driving with their windows closed even – how can you do that in the Kruger – it’s a sin!

We got to Olifants around lunchtime and as we could only check in at 2pm we went and had some lunch, admired the view from the camp over the river, did some shopping and then at 1:45pm hoped they would let us check in (and they did).  We have a fantastic hut here with a view of the Olifants river.  You couldn’t really ask for a better view.  Just sitting outside looking over the river we added 5 birds to the trip list.

We went for a late afternoon drive but it was pretty hot (well over 30 degrees) and we hardly saw any game at all (waterbuck, herd of elephants and impala).  Braai for dinner (pork strips & borewors) with sweet potato; potato and ratatouille (made by Michael). Pretty nice dinner again if we say so ourselves.

Until tomorrow …

P & M

PS: This sunset is for you Helen!

Satara Day 2

We left the camp at sunrise (up at 5:15am). Michael was impressed with himself and took a photo of the time on the car as we drove out to prove to everyone that he can get up early if needed.  Admittedly we did go to sleep at about 9:15pm last night and Michael is again sleeping as I type this (it is 10:50am!).

It was a beautiful morning – 17 degrees at 5:30am – not a breath of wind. We headed for the dam nearby and on route added zebra to our trip list (we also impala; kudu; wildebeest; giraffe).  At the dam it was clear there was something good to see considering the number of cars and as we approached we spotted two lions (one male and one female). They got up and walked about 100 meters and then sat down again. A really good sighting of lion. We watched for a bit and then headed off to see what else was in store for us. We had early morning coffee/tea at another dam and saw zebra, wildebeest & impala at the dam while we drank our coffee/tea.

On our way back we passed the lions again (who were just sleeping) even though there was a herd of impala not much more than 100 meters from them.  As they were doing nothing and didn’t seem to be interested in doing anything we headed off again. About 1km or so down the road we saw two male giraffe fighting and stopped to watch them for some time. The one was trying to get his neck under the others leg to lift him up and throw him over and eventually he managed to achieve that.  I got some really good photos of the fight and if I’m able to I will try to upload one or two to blog and Instagram.  We got back to camp at just before 9am to have breakfast and spend the rest of the day just relaxing. Michael took that literally and slept from about 10am-12:30pm.

Unfortunately while typing this earlier today the electricity went off.  I thought that it would be short-lived but it’s now 8:10pm and we still have no electricity.  What is even more irritating is that it seems the majority of the camp is restored but not our block of huts. Doesn’t look like power is coming back on tonight for us – at least we moving on tomorrow! Still would have been nice to have had coffee tonight. Whole meal done on the braai again (fortunately we were prepared for that). That’s a photo of us eating by laptop light – romantic father/son dinner!

We did go out for a drive this afternoon and saw tons of game again but nothing significant. The closest we came was driving up next to a stopped car and asking them what they were looking at and their reply was “a lion just took out a zebra and then went into those thickets and we have seen it again”. When I asked how long ago was that, she replied “about 4 minutes ago”! So if only we hadn’t stopped to ID that one bird or stopped to check if that was a log or leopard we might have seen it! Someone famous in our family once said “you can’t fine tune life” and he was right .. #noregrets

Most importantly the electricity just came back on – so I was wrong on that front! But while I was hoping to upload the photo of the giraffe fighting – I realised that I have left my card reader at home and while I thought I had a cable to connect my camera to my laptop that thought couldn’t be realised either. Where is Stephen with his cables when you need him?!

Until tomorrow then …

P & M










Kruger Park Impromptu

This wasn’t planned but I needed a week off before the end of the year and so I decided to fit in a quick weeks break in the Kruger Park. Company was restricted because of other family members’ commitments but Michael (kindly, sacrificially or maybe just with glee and rubbing his hands together) agreed to come with me for the week.

We left this morning from Cape Town on the direct flight into Skukuza. Slightly late departure because they were adding water for the toilet (I swear they should get the water from somewhere else on their flights and not from drought stricken Cape Town). My mood changes immediately you touch down inside the Kruger Park – such a great thing that there is an airport inside the Park with scheduled flights.

Michael and I were so organized in getting the rental car and park permit sorted out when we arrived that we had to wait about 10 minutes for the bags to arrive.  Getting the luggage off the plane isn’t done at a fast pace but then again you’re in the Kruger so who really cares.

We headed into Skukuza camp to do some food shopping for next 2 days … essential items like biltong, droewors, beers, crisps etc (and some vegetables of course). On the way into the camp (which is only 4 kms) we saw two of the big 5 (elephant and buffalo) and added some birds and other game to the trip list. After the shopping was done we headed out to our first overnight stay which was at Satara camp. About 90 kms drive which usually takes around 3-4 hours (allowing for stopping for game). As it was just past 2pm and the camp gates close at 6pm it was just the perfect amount of time not to have to rush.

The game park is very dry still as the summer rains don’t seem to have arrived yet.  It makes game viewing very easy and the game viewing was prolific on the drive up.  Massive herds of impala, more kudu than I have ever seen on one game drive, giraffe … journeys of them on the journey, wildebeest, elephant, buffalo, hippo (outside of the water), baboon, vervet monkey, warthog, waterbuck, steenbok, grey duicker, bushbuck and numerous birds.  The birds included a pearl spotted owlet which I have no idea how I spotted it because it was blending in to a grey tree. Two other cars stopped and one had foreigners in it and they just say ‘oh’ and drove off.  The other guys were clearly birders and they were more excited than we were and congratulated me on spotting it.  Still not sure how I saw it – it really was blending in. 32 trippers on the bird list so far without really looking much.

About 20 kms before we arrived at Satara we saw a den of hyena’s including some cubs. One of the cubs was very small still and suckling on the mother. Two were slightly older (like young children). There were at least 3 adults and at least 4 cubs that we could see.  And they were right on the side of the road.

The game viewing was incredibly good for our first drive and has set my expectations high for the rest of our time here.  The lack of water must be driving the animals to the waterholes and that is a good thing for game viewing.  Dinner was the obligatory braai (chickens wings, beef strips, gem squash, corn on cob, veg skewers) and now we are both in bed already (we are both pretty tired).  I am going to post this and then go to sleep (it is 9pm).

Until tomorrow …

P & M

PS: That sunset was for you Helen (we stopped to take it especially since we knew you would have insisted we stop if you had been here)

Kruger Park Day 7 & Home

Yesterday was another very restful day in that we again only went out in the morning and late afternoon. The game viewing unfortunately wasn’t great with very little of note seen on either drive.  We didn’t even add much to our bird trip list which finished on 109. That is probably a reflection of the game viewing over the 7 days as well. Yesterday morning was again overcast which made it 5 out of 6 mornings that we have woken up to overcast conditions. There is no doubt that it confuses the birds who all seem to sleep in when it happens.  We did see two hyena again and most likely the same two that chased the leopard up the tree the previous day.

While the game drives weren’t great, the conversation and laughter during the drives was good. It was a good, relaxed family time together. We finished with one final last braai. This morning we left from Pretoriouskop to go back to Skukuza to take the flight back to Cape Town. We allowed a reasonable amount of time for the drive and also for spotting any game (including detours off to two waterholes on route). The game viewing was again sparse – so bad that we only actually saw our first animal at the waterhole after about 12 kms. That is very unusual for the Kruger Park.

Fortunately the drive did improve slightly in that about half-way to Skukuza we finally saw three white rhino and then about another 5kms down the road we saw a lion as well. So that completed the Big Five for everyone. The biggest issue was that the lion sighting was way too crowded with cars. Unfortunately there are a lot of tour operators doing drives in the south of the park and when they see something they radio all their vehicles and the next thing you have 20 cars around the sighting. Very annoying and some of the drivers get very aggressive if you try to pull past them. I had one guy trying to continually cut me off from seeing the lion and another being very aggressive behind us as well. It was so annoying that we only stayed for a minute or two and packed it in. It reminded us that while there is less game in the north, at least you don’t get these tour operators up there. We were pleased that the leopard sighting we had wasn’t like that at all with just a few cars only.

We arrived at the airport and checked in and had about an hour before the flight left. The incoming flight was delayed by about 20 minutes and we eventually boarded when we were meant to depart and then we sat on the plane for almost another hour while they refueled. They usually don’t refuel in Skukuza but they obviously had some issue in Johannesburg (the plane came from JHB) and so had to refuel in Skukuza (and it took long). The good news is that we made it safely home to a cool and raining Cape Town (quite a shock from the 31 degrees C in Skukuza).

Until June/July …

P, H, S, M & C

Kruger Park Day 6

As we are staying at Pretoriouskop for the rest of the time, we planned to do an early morning drive and evening drive only and to spend the rest of the day relaxing in the camp. We left at 6:15am for the morning drive but again (unfortunately) it was overcast which means it isn’t great for birding. That makes 4 out of 5 mornings. There are numerous circular roads around the camp and we took one of those. The bushveld is very thick and lush at the moment which makes it very difficult to see in very far and makes game spotting quite difficult.  We have now set our expectations quite low as we really haven’t seen much on this trip.

We saw a single male buffalo and then nothing else until suddenly out into the road trotted a hyena. For some reason hyena seem to be the animal for the trip for us. Shortly afterward another hyena appeared and they ran down the road a bit and then into the bush. A few seconds later I saw a leopard climbing up a tree right in front of us.  Clearly the two hyena had caused it to scale the tree. While we were watching the one in the tree, suddenly another leopard also scales the tree further back as well so we had two leopards in trees and two hyena sniffing around at the base of the trees. The one hyena went trotting off down the road and the nearest leopard came down the tree only to be chased up another tree a few meters away. Eventually the hyena both trotted off and the cautious leopards descended and vanished into the thick bush.

We were reminded again that it is entirely about timing because after that you could not see the leopard at all. It was a fantastic sighting and we got some really good photos of the leopard in the tree (and descending as well). We drove off thinking that regardless of what else we might see on this trip, the trip was probably made worthwhile just from that single sighting. Someone was just saying exactly that when not more than 300 meters down the road (not kidding) we saw a cheetah in the middle of the road sniffing around as well. Two hyena, two leopards and a cheetah within 300 meters of each other. Quite incredible especially for a trip that has yielded so little.

The rest of the day we just spent relaxing in the camp and then headed out again at 3:30pm for an evening drive. We were just discussing the fact that since Michael was driving we were likely to see elephant when we came across an elephant in the middle of the road and of course it was aggressive and started to make its way toward us. Fortunately Michael is a little more experienced in reversing these days. The elephant eventually turned and went the other way down the road but there was no chance of us passing it. It passed through another herd of elephant (including some baby elephant) and continued down the road. It eventually stopped on the side of the road at a large tree, leaned up and broke off a branch with a load crack. Ate a bit of those leaves and then repeated the procedure and broke off an even bigger branch. No way were we driving past it and so we turned around and headed back the way we came. All this consumed 45 minutes and it didn’t seem that the elephant was going anywhere in a hurry.

A very eventful day which we ended with a traditional braai (whole meal done on the braai including the vegetables). If you want to see more photos of the day including the full moon from last night – have a look at our Instagram photos (@templetravels).

P, H, S, M & C

PS: Happy birthday to one of our favourite blog readers and commentators.

Kruger Park Day 5

Only the men headed out for the morning game yesterday with the ladies sleeping in. Unfortunately we didn’t see that much again (or at least nothing too exciting). It was overcast though again and so the birding wasn’t great. That was 3 out of 4 mornings overcast so far on the trip and that does not help for birding as the morning is definitely the best time to bird. When we turned to head back to the camp at the turn, there were numerous cars parked to the right and so we did a quick trip to see what they were looking at. It turned out to be a bird of prey eating a scrub hare in the middle of the road (see picture). Pretty impressive sighting.

We had to pack up and leave Skukuza yesterday as our next 3 nights are at Pretoriouskop Rest Camp. It is only about 50 kms to Pretoriouskop from Skukuza. You have to check out by 10am and you can only check in at 2pm. So we left at 10am and took a slow drive with all the detours to the various dams on route.  We still didn’t see a lot on this trip either except what seems to be the now daily occurrence of hyena on the road. We arrived at just after 12:30pm and still had time to kill so we ended up at the Wimpy (yes there is a Wimpy in the KNP) for lunch.

After we checked in everyone (again except me) seem to head for their beds and by 4pm it was only Stephen and I left to do the game drive for the evening. We drove the first 10kms and didn’t see anything – seriously where has all the game gone too?! We didn’t even see an Impala. There was some bird life at the dam we headed to but otherwise it was a pretty unsuccessful trip again. We briefly thought we had seen a lifer but unfortunately that turned out to be that I just hadn’t recorded it in the bird book yet as we had seen it last June during our Namibia leg of our holiday.

We skipped the braai last night and had a vegetarian pasta instead (thought of you Oli). No grater so Michael cut the cheese for the pasta into strips/blocks – when in a game park you make do with whatever you can. Given it was completely finished by the end of dinner and everyone had seconds, I guess it was quite a good dinner.

Until later today …

P, S (for being the only one to do the evening game drive with me), H, M & C

PS: Sign at Skukuza camp … why on earth shouldn’t you be able to lean on the posts?

Kruger Park Day 4

We did the loop around the rivers at Skukuza yesterday morning. That is meant to be the best road for game viewing in the KNP. My grandfather and father swore by it. Someone stole the game off the road though we reckon. Maybe it was ‘Game Capture’ by Guptas? It is very green and thick (no water shortage up here) and quite difficult to see anything unless it saunters across the road (like another hyena did as we headed back into camp). Besides the hyena the game viewing was disappointing though.

The rest of the morning and early afternoon was consumed by sleeping for everyone except me. It is amazing how much sleeping gets done when we come to a game park. Must be the fresh air. At midday we left to fetch Michael from the airport – the last one to arrive.  That all went very smoothly and we were back united as a family again for the next 4 nights.

For the afternoon game drive we decided to head west toward the exit of the park – it was the one route we hadn’t yet taken. The game viewing was much better and we did see a reasonable amount of game but again nothing spectacular or special.

We got back to the camp a little earlier than expected and so went for a stroll along the river and ended up having a drink at the restaurant (which overlooks the river) and watched the sunset. Braai (as usual) for dinner followed by watching some Master’s golf and an early night.

P, H, S, M & C

PS: Someone asked for a link to the video of the elephant charging … I’ll try to upload it when I have good enough connection.