We left Satara today for Lower Sabie. Given the length of the drive and that you can only check in at 2pm, we decided to get up later than usual (6am) and after packing up we headed out. The drive was only 130 km but when you’re driving at 35km/h, it does take quite long. It was overcast the whole day but it never really rained at all (some very light drizzle at one point). That doesn’t mean it was cold – the temperature at 6am was 24 degrees C. 

It was a great morning drive. We added leopard to our trip list. Once again, on the road. We saw what we thought was a hyena but it turned out to be a leopard squatting doing it’s business. It then walked on the road ahead of us, occasionally veering into the grass on the side of the road and then back again and then across the road onto the side. It did that for about 500 meters and then eventually went into the bush and just vanished. A reminder again about how much timing makes a difference. We were the only car when we first saw it though 2 other cars came up later and saw it as well. A fantastic sighting.

We stopped for a bush breakfast at Tshokwane (a picnic site on the road south). Very impressed with their approach to hygiene – everyone wears masks of the Sanparks staff and they were only operating an outside till point so that the staff can work in fresh air only. Tables are generally spread apart so you’re not sitting near anyone else.

We stopped at numerous waterholes on the way down south and added new birds to our list which is now up to 123 birds for the trip. We got to Skukuza (basically the capital of the KNP) at midday and with cellphone reception restored we heard that S & K (son and daughter-in-law) and B (friend) had landed at Nelspruit airport, had their car and were heading to do shopping. Unfortunately the best gate for them to enter (Crocodile Bridge) was closed as the Crocodile river was flooding and the bridge over the river was covered by the river. They had to enter at Malelane and drive up to Skukuza and down to Lower Sabie – a 3-4 hour drive but at least within the Kruger. They saw 4 of the big 5 on the way to the camp (only didn’t see leopard). We also have seen 4 of the Big 5 as we still haven’t seen buffalo despite being here for 6 days already.

We got to Lower Sabie at about 2:30pm and checked in and spent the afternoon and early evening spotting game from our accommodation. We have a view of the river that is just fantastic even from our bed! We have seen hippo feeding on the bank along with elephant while just lying on our bed.

SKB arrived just before 6pm. I had the braai going already by that point (we had ribs and chicken wings on the braai last night). Nice to have them arrive safely and to join us for the next week. 

Until tomorrow …

P, H, S, K & B (she needs to earn her way off the bottom place)

We headed out a bit later today and decided to drive east again on the road to the eastern boundary. Just before the turn we saw something lying in the road and drove down to see what it was and it turned out to be a dead lioness. First time in my life I have seen a dead lion. Unclear what killed it – could have been disease or an injury. Nothing was noticeable except that it had died in the middle of the road. A Sanparks truck pulled up shortly after we got there. I would normally assume they would allow nature to take it’s course but when we came back at the end of our drive this morning, the lion was no longer there. I assume that they took it.

The rest of our drive was pretty uneventful. We saw a reasonable amount of waterbuck and a few new birds for the trip. We are now up to 105 unique birds for the trip. Given we have been in one type of terrain only so far, that is pretty good. By comparison, last year we saw just over 140 birds in our time here so we should pass that total.

We spent the rest of the day in the camp relaxing. H managed to get in two naps in the day (not sure if she will fall asleep tonight!). We headed out late afternoon for our evening drive. We decided on a short route and while we saw game and birds, we really only saw one new bird for the trip (Tawny Eagle). The grass is incredibly long and so it is at some times impossible to see over it even though we are in fairly high car. We did sit at the dam for about 20 minutes just enjoying the quiet and watching the antics of some of the birds. It is incredibly good for the soul! If you haven’t tried to, it is worth doing.

Until tomorrow ….

P & H

We woke up yesterday to an absolutely stunning sunrise. There isn’t quite anything like a bushveld sunrise and sunset. Hard to explain, hard to capture on a photo – must be experienced yourself.

We headed out south from the camp and we saw a few cars further down one road (we weren’t planning on going that way) so we went down to see what that they were looking at. There was a flattened out patch where something had clearly be lying and some vultures were picking at the area too. Must have been a kill there at some point. We turned around and when we drove back up they were opening the dirt road to the east. Perfect timing and without the slight detour to see what the other cars were looking at we would have missed the opening of the road. Everything is about timing in the Kruger!

The road follows the river and there was plenty see of bird life as well as all the standard game. We also saw two different groups of hyenas. After our stop for morning coffee and rusks, we hit the T-junction (basically the eastern border of SA and KNP) and turned south. Not far down the road, we found another pride of lions lying on the road again. Third set of lions, third time they are lying on the road. These were very inactive and just sleeping so after a short while we moved on.

At the next T-junction we something for a distance and when we got there we saw it was a juvenile caracal. They are nocturnal and shy so they are very hard to see. I have only seen a handful previously in the KNP. This one wasn’t in a hurry to go anywhere and seemed inquisitive and so we were able to watch it for some time and I managed to get some great photos.

We got back to the camp much later than usual (closer to 10am) and by that stage, it was already over 30 degrees. We spent the balance of the day inside near the aircon. H did go for a 30 minute walk and came back looking like she had a swim (though she hadn’t!).

We went out later in the afternoon because of the heat and the longer morning drive. We were again able to take another dirt road (not all of them are open yet but enough to give us some choice). We went up to a bird hide to the north of the camp. We did add a few additional birds to the trip list and have now started to see some waterbirds finally as well. The special sighting on the evening drive was a raptor that had caught a European Roller and was eating in the middle of the road. H could even watch it pull the roller apart. Not the kill I wanted I was hoping to see but still pretty interesting.

We did a braai last night but I hardly got through it because it was SO hot that my shirt looked like a very wet towel. It was almost too hot to eat my famous braai’d chicken wings (which H said were the best I have ever done… high standard that).

Until later today (couldn’t post last night because cellphone signal was very poor also the reason for no photos) …

P & H

It rained overnight but it didn’t seem a lot. All the gravel roads are closed though at the moment as they are worried that they are too muddy and people might get stuck. It meant we had to stick to the tar road. We decided to head south and then turn east toward Mozambique. It was still heavily overcast and drizzling lightly so not really ideal birding conditions.

Just after we turned east we saw a pride of lions lying right on the side of the road. It seems that the lions have decided to oblige and stay right on the road for visitors to see them. They were also very curious and would get up to have a look at the cars who wanted to pass them. Lions are often just sleeping and so it made for a nice change to watch them being active.

The rest of the morning drive we saw a reasonable amount of the ‘standard’ wildlife like impala, elephant, giraffe, kudu and waterbuck. We also added numerous birds to our trip list. After our morning drive we were at 75 birds (basically in 2 days in park) and we subsequently added in some more on the evening drive. What has amazed us is the lack of water birds. It seems that the heavy rain has removed them from their usual places in the rivers and dams. We have been wondering where they have gone! The bird life at the dams and rivers is basically non-existent. It seems they must move somewhere else but given they are water birds, where do they go?!

We got back to the camp at around 9am and spent the balance of the day in the camp. It was relatively pleasant weather in that it was mid 20s (C) and at midday it started to also clear up. At 3pm we headed out south for our evening drive. The weather was beautiful and the scenery fantastic. We didn’t see any predators but we still enjoyed the tranquility of the drive.

We had our first braai tonight as well. The weather hasn’t really enabled us to braai until tonight. We had boerewors and lamb ribs with gem squash and potato (also done in the braai) and mushrooms. A lovely way to finish off the day.

Until tomorrow …

P & H

Big thunderstorm overnight and we woke up to a wet Kruger Park and very overcast and relatively cool conditions. We were up at 5:15am and out of the gate shortly after 5:30am. We headed out west and soon into the drive saw lots of wildlife including wildebeest, kudu, warthog, impala, zebra, giraffe and then a cackle of hyena (yes that is the correct collective noun but you can also call them a clan if you’re interested).

The hyena had a stick (more like a branch) and were breaking off pieces of it and eating it. All in the middle of the road. It reminded us why we find the Kruger Park so special. You might have seen the animals many times previously (as we have) but their antics are always interesting. Just this morning we saw two zebra fighting (we couldn’t recall seeing this previously), the hyena eating a thorn tree branch (definitely hadn’t see that before) and two white faced whistling ducks in the middle of the road (nowhere near water). Every time you come here you see something different.

We were a few kms down a dirt road when one of the Sanparks officials came up behind us and flashed their lights and told us that they were closing the dirt roads due to the flooding. We had to turn back (which we did) and so we spent the balance of the day driving only on the tar roads. Hopefully by tomorrow they will start to open some of the dirt roads if it doesn’t rain more tonight.

We got back to camp at around 9am and after breakfast we headed to the shop to buy some wine and beer. For the non-South Africans, we had prohibition until this morning at 10am. As you were even allowed to transport it we had arrived in KNP without any wine or beer. We met most of the rest of the people staying here also buying alcohol in the shop! The rest of the day was just spent resting in the camp (I had a few meetings and calls to make for business unfortunately). We did a walk around the camp and added a few birds onto our trip list.

At 3pm we headed out for our evening drive. We headed north this time knowing it would be out and back on the same road. It was an incredible birding drive. We realised at some point that we stopped looking for game and were just birding only. We saw 2 lifers (Montagu Harrier and Fan-tailed Widowbird) and by the end of the day we had seen 57 unique birds so far since we arrived. Given the weather conditions (overcast, windy and raining) you would not think they are great birding conditions so we are very happy with what we have seen so far,

We are hoping that the weather improves tomorrow (it is meant to still be raining/overcast the whole day). It doesn’t really matter – we are just glad to be here given the circumstances!

Until tomorrow …

P & H

The last time I posted a travel blog was 9 February 2020. Who knew at that point that the whole of 2020 would pass by with no further trips! We were meant to have been in Canada in June/July, and then in the Portugal and US in September and again in US in October (for my nephew’s wedding). Us, like everyone else, simply didn’t have any travel in 2020.

However, we are back. 357 days later we are back (finally) in the Kruger Park. This was H’s first flight for last 357 days (I have made some even late in 2020). Airport was quiet. Only 13 people on the plane with us to Hoedspruit. We landed just after midday and saw Impala at the airport while still in the plane.

H got the luggage while I sorted out the car and then we did a quick trip into Hoedspruit to get supplies for next 5 days. After completing that high risk activity we got our traditional lunch of KFC (drive through) and then headed toward Orpen Gate. We stopped roadside to eat the KFC and got to the Orpen gate at about 2:30pm.

Shortly after the gate (within a km!) we saw a rhino and not more than a few hundred meters from that a pride of lions including two (very rare) white lions. They are the white lions of Timbavati. M & O saw them as cubs in Nov 2019 and they are in the Birmingham pride (or so say M&O). It was a fantastic sighting as they were lying under a tree on the corner of two roads. We couldn’t have gotten closer to them.

Not much further down the road we saw elephant so that was 3 of the big 5 within a few kilometers of the gate. We also added a lifer (Lesser Spotted Eagle) on the drive into Satara camp. Add to that impala, waterbuck, wildebeest, zebra, giraffe, baboon and it was a pretty good start to the trip. We arrived at the camp just after 5pm. By that time a storm was brewing and while it hasn’t rained as yet, I think it will start later. It was oppressively hot – got up to 37 degrees C at 5pm – so some rain might cool things off. Not that they need rain as there have been floods over the last 2 weeks up here. It is the greenest I have seen the Kruger Park.

It’s 9pm and H is already asleep and I am feeling that I might head that way shortly as well. Fresh air & heat seem to take it out of you!

Until tomorrow …

P & H